Saturday, January 4, 2014


Released in 1995, it was Canon's latest entry into the Semi-Professional film camera market.  Sold as a kit with the 28mm-105mm lens, it was the successor to the highly popular Canon EOS Elan.
Sold also as the EOS 50, and EOS 55, depending on market, also had a "E" designation for "EYE-Travel" focusing.  Which meant you could actually allow the camera to focus on what you are looking at.  This was a feature that never really caught on.  I haven't used it, personally, but have read that it wasn't always accurate, and was more of a gimmick than anything.
The body, a Gold colour plastic molded body, with an action grip, makes it rather light weight, and easy to hold for long periods of time.
The camera is actually a good way to help get a digital photographer into film, as it is reminiscent (well the other way around actually) of many digital SLR cameras.  The dials are all in similar places, it has all the same "controls" and even has a similar weight.
The camera employs Infrared assist for autofocus, which is that big red dot, which means it'll be able to focus easier in low-light.  Of course, using some Canon Speedlites, it'll use a "burst" fire off the flash to assist in the autofocus.
The design is actually based off the Canon T90.  In fact, many modern digital SLRs are based off the same design.  It was the T90 that set the bar so high and was so comfortable to hold that so many manufacturers have copied and used on their designs.
So lets go into the camera specifics.  It is a 35mm full frame Single-Lens reflex camera, with multiple different preset settings, such as MACRO mode, Sports, Landscape and Portrait modes.  It also has the usual settings of Program, Shutter Priority AE, Aperture Priority AE, and full manual.  As well as A-Depth AE for a specific depth of field, plus full AUTO mode.
The other settings are with metering.  There is center weighted average, Center Weighted linked to the central focusing point, and 6-zone full frame evaluative metering.  I usually use Center weighted linked to the central focusing point, considering my preferred choice is SPOT metering.
The Self-Timer button also sets the camera to trip the shutter after 10 seconds, which is good for self portraits (selfies), or as I use it for, long exposures without a remote up to 30s on a tripod to give the camera a better chance and settling, stopping it from shaking after pressing the shutter release.
The [CF] section on the mode selection dial is for custom features.  I have, as of yet, never used this function on this camera as of yet.  But maybe one day I'll actually find a use for it.
Now lets flip around to the other side of the camera. On this side we see another dial, which allows the settings for the focus mode.  One-Shot focusing, which means that it'll focus and lock on the subject, but will not change the focus point until you release the shutter button, or move on to the next shot.
AI focusing is Auto-Focusing, and will lock out the shutter if focusing is not achieved in Auto-Focus mode, and will keep the the focus on the subject.
Then there is AI Servo focusing, which will change the focus on the subject as they move through the frame.  I use One-Shot as my preferred method, but have used AI Focus.  I haven't really seen much of a difference in AI Focus VS One-Shot.
The other function on this side is the shot mode. There is Multi-Shot (not Multi-Exposure) also known as continuous mode, or single shot exposure.
I try to keep it on Single-Shot, as I have accidentally held the shutter release in and wasted a few frames all in a row.  Oops!
The next functions we see on the top of this side is the FLASH popup button.  The flash is found on the Pentaprism Hump, which gives it a more square appearance, which is reminiscent of the Minolta XE-5 camera.
Next is the "Lock-AE" button, and custom Function setting button, as well as the Focusing Point selection button.
The LCD screen displays all the information from shot to shot, such as 'IR' receiver, EI Bias, Battery, frame #, flash on or off, mode, aperture value and shutter speed.
So lets take a look now at the very front side and we'll see the IR focus assist beam, shutter release button, and scroll wheel.  That scroll wheel is used to adjust the shutter speed.

Under the AF assist beam is another little red window, which is the IR receiver for the Canon IR Remote control.
I personally prefer the scroll wheel on the front of the mount instead of at the top, as you have to move your finger off the shutter release button to adjust the wheel, where as if the wheel is at the front, you can adjust the wheel using your middle finger and if an opportunity arises while you adjust the settings, especially using an AE mode, you can quickly trip the shutter without moving your finger and possibly missing the shot.
Also, having a second scroll wheel at the front can have different functions.
But discussions like that are far too late, as the camera model is already long time cancelled in production.
Continuing on the tour of the camera, the front shows the "brand" Embellishment on the front of the camera Pentaprism hump, model name, and lens release button.  The camera does not have a stop-down Depth of Field preview button, which is odd for them to exclude as most semi-professional models had that feature on it.
Modern Consumer cameras, such as the Canon EOS Rebel XS (1000D) which is a entry level dSLR has the DOF preview switch on it, while this camera, an advanced amateur/semi-professional series camera does not.
Another oddity that Canon left out on this camera.  But it was progress, at least at the time it was.
Now we focus on the back of the camera, and go into a bit more detail on this part.  The back has another scroll wheel, which you can see this type of design on many newer dSLR cameras that Canon has released, such as the Canon EOS 40D.
This wheel will adjust the EI Bias in different AE modes, or the aperture when you are in Manual Mode.  The on-off switch, like on the 40D is the switch to turn that dial on and off.  Similar to the 40D, the switch will turn the dial on, and you can switch it off to prevent any accidental adjusting of the aperture in manual mode, or accidentally +/- adjusting the EI bias.  The small protected button is the film rewind button, so it'll allow you to rewind mid-roll.
The other button is the select button to change different functions, such as Red-Eye reduction, ISO speed, Auto-Exposure Bracketing, Flash Power, Mutli-Exposure, and IR release on or off.

Now about usage on this camera, it is actually very simple to use.  I have found this camera to be very easy to use, to hold, to handle, and to keep in hand for long periods of time.  It has really nice balance, and quite well built ergonomically.
The Meter is quite accurate, and have found it to meter Negative and Positive films perfectly!

"Padlocked" - Panchromatic 2223 film
Helios 44/2 M42 w/Adapter

"Pinecone" - Panchromatic 2223 film
Helios 44/2 M42 w/Adapter

"Shriveled Leaves" - Panchromatic 2223 film
Helios 44/2 M42 w/Adapter

"Pinecone and Bokeh" - Panchromatic 2223 film
Helios 44/2 M42 w/Adapter

"Fresh Wine" - Velvia 50
Canon EF 28-90mm

"Velvia Sunrise" - Velvia 50
Canon EF 28-90mm

"Bridge Over" - Provia 100F
Canon EF 28-90mm

"My Hat" - Polypan F 50
Canon EF 50mm

"Master Lock" - Polypan F 50
Canon EF 50mm

"Bench" - Polypan F 50
Canon EF 50mm
"Paddock Park" - Polypan F 50
Canon EF 50mm



35mm Single-Lens Reflex
Canon EF EOS Optical System Mount
Vertical Travel Focal Plane Plastic shutter curtain 30s to 1/2000s electromagnetically controlled
Center Weighted Metering System
24mm x 36mm full frame on 135 film
2CR5 Li-Ion battery

Also has the Battery Speed Grip BG-50E option that you can purchase.  They are actually very inexpensive today.

Hope you have enjoyed this post.

Until next time;
Keep those shutters firing!

Stay tuned as the next post will be focused on the Nikkormat FT/2 35mm SLR.